Sunday, October 17, 2010

Homeward Bound

27 Hours, 17 minutes from now (7:15pm Afg time) I will be boarding a plane in Dubai headed home.
WWWWWWOOOOOOO HHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!

I officially leave KAF at 1:45pm, but until I see the destination of USA up on the board in Dubai I'm not counting it.
It will be my 98th day since leaving for Detroit on July 13th, and my 92nd day in the desert. Hopefully the time on the planes (nearly 20 hours total) will go by quickly, it might just be the best flight of my life considering the destination. I can't wait to see Jolie and the boys at the airport.

What a whirlwind this has been. I still look back and wonder how it all happened. Who the hell would have thought that I would be here? I certainly didn't. It's hard to explain the feeling about going home, I couldn't be more excited. I quite literally have butterflies in my stomach tonight just thinking about it.

I couldn't be more at peace with things in my life right now, this first three months has taught me so much not only about the war and the people of both sides, but I've learned so much about myself in such a short time that I could have never done without being here. You learn to adjust, you learn to accept what is out of your control, you learn that you really don't need everything that you thought you did. I mean really, what would a nice big boat do for me over here anyway?  Don't get me wrong, being away from the family has been brutal, I get torn up sometimes after talking with the boys on skype, sometimes it just hits me hard when I am talking to them and realizing that life for them is still moving forward, and I'm missing it. I am always wondering how they are doing without me around. Believe me, Jolie is a rockstar, and she's got things going full speed ahead there, but I wonder constantly about them and how they are handling not having Dad around. It's funny thought, I bet I think about it more than them.

I started to make a list the other night about all the things that I wanted to do when I got home. From the obvious...see the boys soccer & baseball games, got to eat some food that actually tastes and looks appropriate, maybe breathe some non dusty air...the list was starting to get long. And that's when I realized exactly what it is that I want to do when I get home......be home. That's all. Just be home, whether that's on the couch watching a movie as a family, hanging out in the yard with the boys, maybe take the dog for a walk, how about see true blue sky and maybe even some clouds, and if it rains..you'll find me laying in a puddle. But most of all I just want to be home. I just want to be back to some semblance of normalcy. I really can't wait.

I keep meaning to update everyone on the spider bite, I mentioned previously that it was all cleared up, and it is, but what happened about a week later when the small scab on the initial bite fell off I guess will act as a lifetime reminder, you see, I have a hole, not like a hole into my brain obviously, though some would say I've had that for years, I guess more like a little divot, that son of a bitch ate me! And to make matters worse, they are signs up right now about frequent sighting of Saw Scaled Vipers around the base. I looked it up, it's just what is believed to be the most venomous viper in the world....awesome. So now I have not only the fastest spider in the world...the Camel Spider, which they think is NOT what bit me....great, there's a worse bite crawling around out there, but now the most venomous viper in the world. Sure can't wait to get back! Oh, and you know those annoying horseflies that dive bomb you at the beach, at the pool, at the lake...well can someone explain why one landed on my monitor yesterday? Did he make a wrong turn on his way towards oh I don't know....WATER!!! Seriously, we been inundated with flies as the temperatures have dropped a bit and they can actually not fry when they land, but now the occasional horsefly has been in the office. Does everything here need to bite??

So you all can take the next 2 weeks of from desperately checking the blog, no offense, I ain't blogging from home. You will just have to wait until Nov. 4th to hear all about the trip to Disney and everything else that will happen far too fast for me.

Here's to everyone on the plane tomorrow practicing proper hygiene....

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Still Plugging Away

First off I need to apologize.
For as many years as I can remember, I have been going to Red Sox games. That includes making it back to Boston every year for at least 1 game even after we moved to North Carolina, heck we still have our season tickets. This year we were all set to make the trip back home to go to a game, I mean see friends and family. Well that got canceled as the timing of leaving for Afghanistan was rapidly approaching and it just couldn't happen.
So why do I need to apologize? Because this was the first year for as long as I can remember that I didn't get to Fenway Park for at least 1 game, and it clearly is the reason why they did not make the playoffs. I guess it might be well enough though since I wouldn't be able to sit in my lucky seat on the lucky couch wearing my lucky hat and only changing the channels during commercials if they are losing, cursing friends who dared to call me during an important game. I won't name the guy who caused that one, but Mike knows who he is..."Woohoo...we're going to the World Series".....cue the collapse in Yankee Stadium...why didn't they pull Pedro? He was clearly tired!!!....sorry, I'm back now...So I apologize to all of Red Sox Nation for being the cause of the horribly early end to the season. Thankfully I hadn't seen a game since coming over here in July, it was bad enough seeing the highlights online each day.


But how about this for representing the home team? I went to the bizarre this morning that they have every Saturday. I don't go often, and prior to today I haven't bough a single thing. Fake watches, fake bags, bootleg DVD's are not really my thing. They have some cool stuff in some spots, I would by some of it, but every time I ask if it was made locally....let's just say the answers are not that convincing. I mostly go to walk around and see the sights. Nothing says relaxing day of shopping as a guard tower casting a shadow on you. I figure if something ever catches my eye maybe I pick up a little something for the misses back home. Well today as I was about to leave, I saw the most beautiful thing I have seen here. It was a true mood improver. A little reminder of home......


There this was just hanging in this guy's booth. How funny is that? If nothing else, this place never stops cracking me up! Best $20 I ever spent I think. This is going to look damn good hanging above my bed back home...right Jolie? ...Jolie?
On a somewhat related note, my sister sent me a care package the other week, and inside was a package of Red Sox pens, I am guarding them with my life. She also included the most delicious granola bars that have ever graced my tongue. It's the little things here that make all the difference.....Thanks Marilyn!



Me and the great crew made up of Afghans and Pakistanis.
So I officially have completed my first project here. I took it over from the other company (that we bought) and man was it a mess. Behind schedule by almost the time frame that it was supposed to take to do the entire job. Not too mention that the Ministry of Finance at one point accused myself and the Chief Contracting Officer for the Army of corruption (cross that off my bucket list). I still have the email in which he does it and I may frame it, so cool. Well this week I officially turned the buildings over to the government. Woohooo!!!!! Getting that disaster turned back around and handed off has been a major task. One that would have broken a lesser man....come on people...I'm reaching here! The project consisted of 4 buildings, each is 5,000SF and they house maintenance shops for the armored vehicles.

Each building has bays for 20 trucks, each of which cost approx $750k to buy, than they fit them up with the armor plating, radar jammers that stop the remote signals that the Taliban sometimes uses to detonate roadside bombs, etc, etc....and they top out around $1 million a piece. Yup, so each of my buildings have $20 Million worth of vehicles in them. I would guess conservatively that there are 15,000 vehicles here minimum. I would not be shocked to learn that I am way low on that. Ya my calculator gives an error message when doing that math too.
They have now started installing a 360 camera system on some of them that can relay live pictures of the battlefield to each vehicle in the convoy, and also back to main command. On a clear day they can see for 13 miles in every direction.Talk about a video game.



Afghan Policeman on his way to work at the civilian airport.
Alright...time to get political....sorry I know.....I'm sure you have been hearing about the supposed talks between the Afghan government and the Taliban leaders. They are apparently in talks about ending the war. Believe me, I would love for that to happen. Seeing somewhat first hand what this war is doing to the country I want nothing more than for it to end. But the problem is how does it end and end well? This country is in no shape to protect itself from the Taliban. I have seen with my own eyes the level of protection that the Afghan National Army & Police can provide. They were the ones that let myself and my co worker into THEIR base by simply showing them a shopping club membership card! And in what can only be considered a close call for me...a suicide bomber got through the Afghan Army check point here by paying the guard $5 and he drove down the access road towards the entrance to the civilian airport where he blew his car up killing 3 local Afghans. Close call because earlier that morning I had dropped off someone at that same spot.The fact is that everyone involved in this war needs the war. The Taliban know nothing else, even if they say they want peace, all that means is that want NATO troops to leave, and as soon as that happens, they will take over the country without hesitation. Afghanistan cannot defend themselves well enough yet. Not to mention that the amount of money that is being pumped in here for more than just military reasons cannot be replaced. Heck, the Afghan President's family owns the largest private security firms in the country, and they also own companies that are major players in the supplying of heavy materials such as gravel, stone, etc. The war ends, and all those avenues of income end. Again, I hope it ends, and ends soon, I would be honored to become unemployed because of it....although we might just pack up our bags and move the operations to Pakistan.....I think they are next.

I've spoken a lot about my times of interaction with the local Afghans both on the base and off, and I hope that no one thinks that I am in any way romanticizing those interactions. They just seem to stay with me for so long. Earlier in the week I drove someone outside the base to pick up a truck. As I sat in my truck waiting for him to finish arguing , I mean negotiating, with the other guy over how much it would cost him, suddenly out of nowhere appeared a small girl right in my window. She jumped right up on the running board and before I knew it she was right there at eye level. Not only was I bit shocked at the lack of fear on her part to just jump on the truck like that, but also at the way she started right into a conversation with me...in ENGLISH. She asked me my name, told me hers, I asked her how old she was, she told me 7. My guess was 5. I was so taken by her, I mean here I was sitting in the middle of a war zone talking to a completely fearless 7 year old Afghan girl. After a few minutes, her little brother came walking along, wearing his old, faded spider man shirt mind you. So there we were, me now leaning out the window of my truck as they stood side by side looking up at me. That's when it hit me, they had walked over from a building that prior to this, I assumed was empty. I'm talking no walls, just cardboard and wooden crates to close it in, roof missing off part of it, no running water, obviously no electricity, backed up to an area that is known to not be de-mined yet, and about 1/2 mile from where that car bomb went off. Holy cow. This is insane. These 2 children were absolutely gorgeous in their innocence. I haven't stopped thinking about them. Jolie even asked me if I was planning on bringing them home. I would if I could, believe me.

9 days until I hop on a plane, 10 days until I arrive home.......I can taste it!

Monday, October 4, 2010

And on the 76th day....I rested.

And by rested I mean collapsed. I've written many times in the past about how hard it is to get a true day off here. Well yesterday it finally happened. I got in bed around 1am on Saturday night, and I didn't wake up until 1pm.....man did I need that. I had turned off my cell phone, shut down my outlook so I wouldn't hear the ping of a new email and feel the need to check it, and set my Skype to only ring if Jolie called. I even took the measure of telling my boss not to look for me until after lunch, thankfully he respected that. I probably could have stayed in bed all day if it hadn't been for how hungry I was. Let's just say that the previous night's version of lasagna wasn't as filling as one would hope.

I showered, shaved, and whipped open the door to the steaming greeting of that dreaded sun that I have come to know. Certainly was strange though to be heading out for the day at such an hour that the heat was already running full blast. I'm used to being up and in full steam ahead mode as the heat of the day starts to climb. Lately the weather has been playing some serious tricks on us. Most days first thing in the morning is actually getting quite cold. The temperature overnight is really starting to drop, which makes the overall daytime temperature have much further to climb before reaching that scorching mark. High temperatures right now are mid 90's. Occasionally it hits the triple digits, but it is becoming rare. By the way, if you are checking the temperature widget here on the blog...you need to add about 10 degrees to it. There is no temperature tracker on the internet for here on KAF. So that is picking up the temperature in the nearby Kandahar City, which is about 2,000' higher than we are here.

So what to do on an actual self imposed day off? Rather than go eat lunch in the usual assembly line of calories, I decided to head over the a coffee shop that is in the British area of KAF. What a nice change of pace that was, I had a nice large cup of REAL coffee, and an actual fresh baked muffin. Holy cow I thought I had died and gone to heaven. I just learned about this place the other week and boy am I glad I did. I took my book with me, the same book that I started on the plane on the way over here and haven't picked up since. I spent about  3 hours sitting in there, in a nice over sized leather chair, just reading my book. And get this, I even got in on a few chess matches with 3 American troops that were hanging out there as well. I got my ass kicked, but hey, I wasn't working! Turns out these guys were part of the big push that is happening in Kandahar right now and had just gotten back to the base.

With the exception of going to my job site for about an hour, I spent the rest of the day relaxing, didn't even go across the parking lot to the office...lord knows I've been there enough. And man have I been churning out the work in there lately. Still with just the 1 project that I took over when  I got here, and with that project that I won a few weeks ago now being put on hold, I am still busy as ever. I'm really the only one in Afghanistan with substantial estimating experience, so I have become the default estimator for projects all over the country. I don't mind it though, I guess it just adds more value to me here. Currently I am running the bid on a $50 million project up at Camp Leatherneck. We are close to getting awarded a $6 million dollar project at Camp Bastion that I bid about 1 month ago, and I just received another Bastion project to start working on last night. There is not much new work coming out here at KAF right now as many of the contracting officers are finishing their rotations and the new ones have not arrived yet. When I get back from R&R, I'm going to hopefully be able to focus more on getting work here that I have so far, between taking over the operations and trying to get things back on track here, the search for new work has had to take a back seat. The work will come soon though, I'm confident of that.

So have you ever been driving a vehicle when suddenly the back tire just falls off? I have. And when it has fallen off where you right in the midst of going through the security gate at the new main entrance to a military base in Afghanistan? I was. Things around here certainly are not boring. On Thursday I was heading over the "The Pit" (explanation later). I had to go through a checkpoint and into a holding area of sorts. As I pulled through the checkpoint it felt as if I had driven into a huge hole. I should only have been so lucky, turns out the back left wheel simply fell off. Completely off. I'm talking axle on the ground type off. It would appear as if the lug nuts were either never on, or not on tight and had worked their way off. And to think that this was a truck that was left to me the day before while one of my regular trucks was being serviced. Only in Afghanistan! So there I was in the middle of the checkpoint blocking the entire lane...good times. The Slovakian guards were getting a big kick out of the American whose wheel fell off. One of them walked over to me and put his hand on my shoulder and in his deep accented voice said "that's funny". Ya thanks buddy. A quick inspection of the truck revealed that it was missing the jack..of course. I asked the guard if they had a jack in their trucks at all, and I immediately realized that a jack made for a massive armored vehicle was clearly not going to work on my Toyota. So without missing a beat, he suggested a better resolution, one that I wish I had my camera for.....they backed up to my truck, tied a strap to the front, and dragged it across the gravel parking lot and out of the way....works for me! I was going through the gate to meet the truck guy anyways and get my other one back. So instead of driving out the gate and swapping, I walked out, gave him the keys and told him where he could find it, and took my other truck back in. Problem solving...it's what I'm about here.

So what is "The Pit" you ask? Well it's no place for the faint of heart. It's what they call the area where the locals enter the base each day to work. All non badged people come through there regardless of nationality. It starts at a gate about 1/2 mile away. They enter through a check point where they are searched and pass through a high tech body scanning machine. They then walk about 1/4 mile to another check point where they get their eyes scanned. Once they make it through there, they enter in to "The Pit". It's just a large fenced in area with a massive sunshade over it that acts as a holding area. There they wait for their escorts to pick them up and bring them onto the base. You have to have their paperwork sorted out 24 hours before entering or they can't come through. And after they come through they must stay with their escort for their entire time, each escort can have up to 5 people with them.
From the base side, you walk from the parking area about 100 yards to the pit, you have to go through a gate and into the actual holding area to claim your workers. It's an incredibly tense area. These guys have been through hell just to get to that area. And it usually takes hours, in the heat. Fights often break out during the mornings as they push and shove to try and get through as fast as they can. It's an exhausting ordeal for them day in and day out. The process starts at 7:30am, and it is not unusual to have them get through as late as noon. Factor in the fact that on Friday there was a bomb left outside by the first gate, and you've got one heck of an adventure for these guys to get to work each day. I give them incredible amounts of credit. No longer will I complain about traffic on my way to work when I get home. Do you understand now just how hard it can be to get things done around here? Some days I'm only getting 4-5 hours of actual working time on the job. It's a killer on the schedule. And if you get them to the gate late to leave, guess what? The MP's are waiting for you. My subcontractor is responsible for bringing these guys in, so luckily I only have to go from time to time to sign the new paperwork to prove that they are working on a valid contract.

So the other day I was over by the airfield, I love it over there, boys and their toys I guess. I spliced together a quick video, not such great quality, but considering that you need a special camera pass to take pictures/videos over there, I did the best I could. And check out what was just sitting by the side of the road that goes past the airport.

Right now there is a major push going on in Kandahar. The amount of troops that are out in the mountains fighting right now is massive. Some days the usually crowded boardwalk or dining facilities are just plane empty. They are trying to search out the Taliban in the area and take over the villages again. You can tell when they make the push, as close as I am to the gate, I can always see and hear them lining up in their convoys to go out, and by now I have learned when it is just a typical trip or if they are going out with more force. God bless them. Almost every night for the past week you can here the fighting in the distance. Explosions, helicopters, planes, more than just the usual activity.
A-10
Well last night was a full on battle. There was a rocket attack around 8pm, immediately...even before the "all clear" siren went off...all hell broke loose out there. The sound brought me out of my room and I just stood outside absolutely awe struck by the sounds. Explosion after explosion, the 50mm guns from the helicopters just filled the night with that overpowering sound. I don't know how you don't just drop dead of a heart attack if that thing is aiming at you! The battle went on for a good 3 hours. I stood on the top of the 2nd story staircase here and could occasionally see off towards the mountains the blinking lights on the helicopters, I couldn't count how many, but there had to be at least 4, and the A-10 strike planes were circling around as well. They are more of a ground support specialty fighter jet compared to the F-18. I tried to get some audio of it (since you couldn't see anything) but it didn't really pick up too well, I think it's time for a new camera.

Just 14 days left until I am heading home for some needed R&R. My boss calls this time frame the most useless time anyone will spend here. He understands how checked out you can get when your mind is on going home. Funny, it wasn't until I booked my flight that I started to get antsy. Having that date on the calendar now makes me keep looking at it counting down the days. I can't wait to get home and see Jolie and the boys, and to see all our great friends who have been so supportive and helpful to us in more ways than imaginable.